Injection moulder build – London

birdynamnam · February 23, 2022, 12:04am

Hi all,

So we have had our injection moulder made, with the help of a local blacksmith who fabricated the frame.

She followed Dave’s design pretty closely, except used extruded tube rather than rolled for the barrel, as the latter is a lot more expensive. She then filed out the burr on the inside…

I’ve been doing the electrics today, so we haven’t had a chance to use it yet.

We bought two (Berne) Rex C-100 PID temp controllers off ebay, and whilst I have managed to wire them up to everything ok, they aren’t registering the measured value (PV) and are heating up regardless of the set value (SV).

Has anyone had issues with this? I have read up on the settings and changing various parameters, but this seems to be a more basic issue that makes me think they may be faulty.

One PID reads 999º as its PV and the other hovers around 20-22ª, but this doesn’t change when the SV is altered and a probe placed within a band heater that’s clearly on.

Any ideas most appreciated!

Also, if anyone would like any help with metal fabrication in SE London, I’m sure our smith would like the work and I can put you in touch.

Bertie and Paula

keesdeligt · February 23, 2022, 9:03am

Hi Bertie,
The frame is looking Good!
Could you post a picture of the schematics sticker on the side please?

22 is nice good looking temp in may :). does it get higher when you hold the sensor?
The 999 C looks like a bad sensor, you could switch the sensor wires, of the 999 one,
if that will not help swap the sensors and check what happens.

lafabulosafabricadeplasticos · February 23, 2022, 9:03am

Buenos días, tardes o noches tengan sea el momento del día en el que lean este mensaje.

Primero que nada agradecerles por tomarse el tiempo para leerme.

Quisiera compartirles que he terminado de construir mi primera inyectora de plásticos.

sin embargo aún no la echo a andar debido a que tengo un problema.
No he podido lograr configurar LOS DOS controladores modelo BERME REx C-100fk02-v*AN*DN de fabricación china.

Las resistencias hechas en latón no están calentando la camiseta.

He estado buscando en internet modos de configuración y no he podido tener respuesta.

uno de mis problemas por ejemplo, he visto que para desbloquear y poder configurar se necesita dejar presionado el botón de SET por unos segundos, y posteriormente usar la opción LOK y poner el parámetro en 1000. Sin embargo, mi controladores solo llegan hasta el parámetro 999.

Me gustaría saber si alguien que haya puesto funcionar la maquina inyectora le sucedió este mismo problema, Y DE SER ASÍ me pudiera auxiliar y compartir como consiguió solucionar el problema.

Saludos desde la amiga república de MÉXICO.

friel-friel · February 23, 2022, 9:03am

Hey, did you manage to complete your injector. Iam embarking on one at the minute, how ever I feel the electrics will getme! Have you a picture of how all is rigged up to a power supply cable?
Also how did the moulds go. Any pics?

paulaortega · February 23, 2022, 9:03am

First mould ready to test next week with @birdynamnam!

Paula

winbidtm · February 23, 2022, 9:03am

Subscribed

birdynamnam · February 23, 2022, 9:03am

@keesdeligt

Hey, thanks for the info! We did some tests yesterday with just one PID and three band heaters and after a few attempts got a fairly good consistency with PLA.

Will sort out the other PID soon and in the meantime start making some moulds!

Thanks again.

Bertie

keesdeligt · February 23, 2022, 9:04am

Hi Bertie,

seems you have the right thermocouple…
The deadband for switching the SSR on/off is in the settings (Check the leaflet)
As well as a setting for the power % it uses un that range.
For the first tests you could use the LED on the SSR, witch don’t like the input polarity the wrong way around. Took me 1/2 day once to figure that out :(….

birdynamnam · February 23, 2022, 9:04am

@andyn

Yes, both are K-type and set for K. I have got one PID control working now, although it can wander a fair bit over and under the desired SV, +/- 20º or so… at other times it stays spot on.

The other PID still doesn’t recognise a PV or SV, and just heats away of its own accord!

Think I’ll get a replacement… and try an injection with 3 band heaters tomorrow!

Cheers.

Bertie

andyn · February 23, 2022, 9:04am

@birdynamnam

Are you using K-type thermocouples and are both controllers set for this type? There are probably other options in the settings.

birdynamnam · February 23, 2022, 9:04am

Hey,

Thanks for your reply. Yes, 22º is balmy for here! However I don’t understand how it can read the ambient temp but not register anything else. I have attached a photo of the schematics sticker and the PID switched on.

Interestingly, when I just turned everything again, both PIDs showed this reading. (around 22º SV)

Now, I have got one PID to work – kinda. However, when it reaches the SV, in this case 150º, it allows it to drop back down to 140 before cutting in again and turning on the SSR. The actual temp says its 180+, but this can be adjusted in the settings I think.

The second PID does not work with this working thermocouple or any other. It just sits at 22º and the band heater just continuously heats up with the thermocouple sitting inside. I just cracked a plate in fact!

It seems therefore that I have 3 faulty thermocouples and at least one faulty PID unit?

Many thanks for any input. It’s frustrating to be so close to using the injector and get stuck at the last hurdle!

Bertie