Motors

Looking at some used motors. Are the motors in the links below a viable option for the shredder?

http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/for/5553521283.html

http://bellingham.craigslist.org/bfd/5547322044.html

Hi, im currently in Spain starting to make the Shredder but the most expensive part is the motor, does anyone have a cheap supplier in Spain or Europe that could send the motor?

Dave do you know if the supplier where you got yours could send it? could you give us the contact?

If anyone in Spain is making the shredder im willing to help, I already found some suppliers for the other parts.

Thanks in advance

@shredman, no worry, there is nothing annoying; much like Bart Simpon’s Teacher, said : ‘there are no stupid questions, there are just stupid people’. Nothing to worry.what you mean by ‘bueller’ ? drive shafts : I don’t know the torque of this winch motor but be prepared those motors or it’s gearbox is breaking some day anyways. If you can’t find anything, try to find a metal workshop with a lathe. They do you a direct coupling in 1 hours, paid rate of around 25-50$ the hour. Normal couplings are in the 50 – 200 Euro range. From what I’ve seen, folks break their couplings a lot. Get it big as possible! Those metal shops can tell you also where to get those from a trader near you.
good luck.

While I’m here annoying everyone,  I need to find a coupler that can connect 2 different size diameter shafts.

bueller ?

Thank you so much for taking the  time to give your thoughts on the matter… Because this is now a damaged motor to a certain extent, im going to use it for testing as the turning power hasn’t seemed to be affected, but the bearing does turn its way out…  I will see if I can hacksaw that end black bit to see if it releases the spool…  I have a mechanic friend that might be able to help… do all the experiments on this and then maybe buy another  and get it right…

Cheers  thanks to you and to everyone who has helped thus far…

I would go with the gear puller or a DIY equivalent that pulls on the hub while pushing on the shaft. Might be worth taking it to a local mechanic and they can probably pull it in 5 min. You can make something equivalent with a stout steel bar (or square tube), A hole near each end that you bolt (with a gap) to the hub and a hole in the center for something like a 10 mm bolt. You put a nut between the bar and the shaft, then as you screw a bolt through the nut (holding the nut), it should push on the end of the shaft while the nut pulls the bar (and the hub) off of the shaft.

Of course you could go brute force and carefully slice the hub lengthwise with an angle grinder with a couple of cut off wheels.

A mechanic may have an idea how to keep the bearing in the housing. I would probably just carefully glue it.

Good luck

Nope definitely not plastic.  its part of the metal spool… not sure what to do now

yeah, if it was mine, I would cut that black material off to see what is underneath. In the picture it almost looks like there are some threads on the shaft with maybe a lock ring?
Good luck.

Hi, I assumed it was metal and recall it was cold to the touch, I will check tomorrow when I’m in the warehouse and see .  Thanks

What is that black, looks like heat shrink plastic, sleeve around the wider part of the shaft end. If that is plastic, I would cut it off to see if there is a retaining ring of some kind under it.

Can you take a picture of the end of the spool? Also can you push the shaft and bearing back in place? Does it rotate without wobble then?

Hi, I used this motor.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Arebos-Elektrische-Seilwinde-Motorwinde-Hub-Seilhebezug-Seilzug-Winde-Kran-NEU/112536907073?hash=item1a33b8ed41:m:mZJDgG-v8ry30fYVRLo1QmQ

This winch motor is so powerful that it bent my Shredder axis coupling when I tried to shred 6mm thick PMMA plates 🙁
The spool from the powerful 1800W (500/1000kg Version) motor is stacked on to an 27mm hex bar. you can easily pull it off.

Looks like @patrick-bonsen used a similar configuration, perhaps he can comment on getting the spool off. Otherwise, perhaps you can borrow a gear puller or make an equivalent with a bar with a tapped hole on the center that you can then clamp onto the flange of the spool. A little heat on the spool core may help as well.
Good luck

Hi, I have just purchased that exact hoist and I have come to the part I must remove the spool from the shaft.  I saw someone on YouTube just took a rubber mallet and tapped it off, but I can see that it isn’t possible if hit it pretty hard and not budging… do you have experience with this type of hoist and removed the spool?  Did you have to open the gearbox to remove it or can it be  smacked off with a rubber mallet as this guy does in this YouTube clip?
https://youtu.be/NL-k8kJ8yig  4 min mark

thanks if you can shed any light…

In Australia, it is difficult to get second hand single phase motors at a reasonable price. After much trawling around secondhand goods, and the internet, I decided to enter an auction for a 3 phase motor. I decided that AUD40 would be my limit. Then after a few attempts, I did get my 1.2kW 3 phase motor. I belong to a men’s shed (for retired gentlemen) and we have 3 phase power. It is a 4 pole motor, that means it will run at about 1400 rpm. I also bought a new 20:1 reduction gearbox from Ebay, for about AUD80. After some machining I have the motor connected to the gearbox. The same single phase motors are well over AUD100 (second hand), then you might as well spend an extra AUD70 – 80, and get a new motor. (also must be 4 pole, so it will spin slower, as the 2 pole are about 2800 rpm)

Can anyone tell me if this motor would work. I think it will have enough torque but im kinda lost.

Its a
AC Gearmotor 115 Nameplate RPM 6 Max. Torque 600.0 in.-lb. Enclosure ODP

Hey @enviro,

This might be a bit late, but I recommend against getting a crow bar or pry-bar to use as the axle.

I did the same thing, but as you are no doubt aware, the axle needs to be milled at each end down to 20mm to fit into the bearings. So I took the Pry bar down to an engineering company in town to get a quote on the milling.

It turns out that because the metal in the Pry bar is hardened, the cost of getting it milled is about twice the cost of them making an axle themselves because they will go through a heap more tools to mill it. FYI, mine cost $150 + gst but I got an extra modification which added to the cost.

Simon

Hey guys, I’ve created a google docs, (Almost) definitive guide on motors, summing up a lot of the info found in your posts.
Please give it a read and tell me if I got something wrong.

the aim is to develop a cheatsheet and guide on the motors to add to the official precious plastics documentation.
@davehakkens has done a monumental work, let’s help him and us clarify better the parts on motors.

I’ve also created a forum post (yes sorry another one 🙂 ) where we can discuss motors, the document and other related stuff

I’ve also found an online Gear Generator that makes it one step easier to build our own gear reducer to convert the engine of a washing machine into something usable for the precious plastics machine

If anyone here has made the machines and they are working, please post images of the nameplate of your motor and what the pros and cons you see in them

let me know what you think.
thank you all
b.

@enviro
Considering comment above from @andyn regarding motor torque estimate of 50 – 100nm I found this Single Phase 0.55kW 0.75HP 70rpm Electric Motor and Worm Gearbox on ebay

I tend agree that the motor in the specifications seems overated.

Using the following equation thats 75nm
Torque in SI units can be estimated as

T = PW 9.549 / n

where

T = torque (Nm)

PW = power (watts)

n = revolution per minute (rpm)

Single phase which is better for most application other than industrial where 3 phase supply is available
Half the price of specified motors on eBay
Cheers
Wayne

@andyn Thanks for that, really appreciate it!